Okanagan Woman Magazine

Friday, November 22, 2013

Warning Signs on West Maui's Rugged North Shore


Of course we saw the signs.  They were right there, large amber coloured, diamond shaped warning signs, and we interpreted them as cautions, not outright prohibitions.  Traveling from Wailuku north on Route 340, the road became windier and we knew it was probably going to get interesting.  So, we thanked the signs for the ‘heads up’ and drove on, around the first narrow corner, then the second and then … well, in for a penny, in for a pound.

This was an unplanned excursion. After a morning walk along the three mile beach that fronts our condo and an early afternoon siesta, we decided to head out on a reconnaissance mission, scouting out cool places to suggest to our upcoming visitors from the Okanagan.    
We took Highway 30 to Wailuku, past the Iao Valley which we’d visited the day before, and onto Route 340, also called the Kahekili Highway.  (After driving this road, let me stress that this is not a Highway by any stretch of the imagination).

If we’d had a map in the car we’d have seen the dotted red line with the words Narrow road, drive at your own risk. Maybe we’d have turned back, but probably not.  Because we’re funny that way.
We didn’t realize that we were on West Maui’s rugged North Shore; perhaps it is the not knowing that made this road trip so outstanding.  The road is single lane for many miles, with constant curves, no guardrails and teeny weeny places to pull over to yield to oncoming traffic.

It is hair raising; I’m not gonna lie.  But the rewards  … outstanding rugged coastlines, picturesque farmland, a rustic village and so much more.
Shortly after passing Turnbull Gallery’s life-sized giraffe sculpture we came to amazing farmland overlooking the ocean. Egrets wade through the tall grass where cows are grazing, unlimited ocean views in the background. 
And straight ahead is a stunning, rocky island, which I later learn is Mokeehia Island, a seabird sanctuary.

We continue to climb the windy road, until we come to an unexpected treasure - the Kaukini Gallery and Gift Shop. Located on a cliffside overlooking the picturesque village of Kahakuloa, this shop has a superb variety of Maui inspired art and gifts. The views from here are shockingly beautiful. Artist in residence, Karen Lei Noland, suggested we stop at the Olivine Pools, a natural lava formation that creates large tidal in the rocks, so we did.  

But not before stopping at a viewpoint of Kahakuloa Head, a landmark hill at the end of a small bay, and purchasing a lemon smoothie from a colourful converted school bus that looks like it might be permanently parked there.

Soon, the road became “normal” and I unclenched my fingers from the dashboard.
Within minutes we saw several cars parked at the side of the road and we guessed this just might be the Olivine Pools, as it is not marked.  A couple returning to their vehicle confirmed that it was and the woman, noticing my fashion flip flops cautioned me against venturing down the rocky path.
So, we wandered just far enough to snap some photos and decided to come back another day.  Driving just a few minutes on, we discovered the Nakalele Blowhole and though my footwear prohibited us from making the trek down to the ocean, our reconnaissance mission has been a success!  We have discovered some wonderful places to which we will return in the coming weeks.

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